Salumeria is just that! Plates of cured, smoked and processed meats are the major attraction. In central Canggu, amongst the rice paddies this amazing little place is the best example, so far, of the growing sophistication of the Bali food scene.
How many Salumerias are there in Sydney, Singapore, Jakarta? There may be an isolated one somewhere but I know of none! To find this one in Bali says it all.
Geoff Lindsay is already well known in Bali [and Melbourne], as Chef and food conception at Saigon Street on Petitenget and owner/chef at Melbourne?s award-winning modern Vietnamese restaurant, Dandelion. At Salumeria he is doing something that he loves, just for 'grown-up' foodies, who like to live as he does.
Salumeria is where you go for small interesting plates of antipasto, salumi and exotic cheeses to snack on whilst sipping an aperitif or cocktail BEFORE wandering off for dinner somewhere. Just a hint, do not order dessert with your dinner, come back here later and have an Italian one, or an amazing cheese platter with a coffee or maybe a digestif, or two?
Just want a snack? It may be a small plate of Boiled Eggs and Anchovies, Smoked Marlin, Duck Liver Pate, the great Italian Prosciutto e Melon or an unusual Spanish White Anchovies with pomegranate and capers.
There is a small but exotic selection of sandwiches on the menu. All served on sourdough or rye, nice and crusty, the way bread should be! A veggie one with grilled eggplant, peppers and zucchini with rocket and tomato or that famous Reuben on Rye, corned beef, sauerkraut and pickles. The there is Smoked Turkey [with cranberry of course] .
Or maybe a salad, so fresh and clean! Most of the dishes here are served with very Italian crusty bread, and olive oil for dipping! A salad of pea, mint and fresh ricotta is drizzled with lemon infused olive oil and served with an anchovy grissini. The Tomato and Basil is with white anchovies and pecorino pepato. Grilled Goat Cheese with rocket, dates, walnuts, walnut oil and vinaigre de Jerez. The Bocconcini comes with roasted peppers & basil on toasted sourdough.
To sample the full range of options here you can begin with a plate of antipasti, a variety of grilled, pickled and/or roasted vegetables. Very Italian! Follow that with your choice of raw seafood and meats, cured, marinated or smoked.
The fresh tuna is cured and then smoked, shaved thin and tossed with shaved fennel, pomegranate, mint, chilli and tangerine juice. This dish alone is worth the visit. Smoked Salmon is served with its own caviar [eggs] horseradish and nasturtium leaves. Together with the Carpaccio of Raw Beef, all are included in the monster Sampler Platter, perfect for two persons.
Then we come to the star attractions at Salumeria Tanah Barak, the salumi and the cheeses. My most amazing discovery was that apart from one salumi, all the product was made in Indonesia, either Java or Bali. Product made by German, Italian and Swiss, who have come to Indonesia, bringing their skills with them. The way that many generations of their family had been producing the same at their originating village. I often found it difficult to recognize any difference, taste and texture wise, from the original.
All the Salumi are aged and then sliced on a traditional hand cranked slicer to maintain the integrity of the salami and melt the delicate fats.
The Hungarian style salami is made locally with coarsely ground salted pork meat garlic is added, along with spices and is filled into a natural casing. 'El Merkat' Chorizo is a locally made Iberian style sausage made from a mix of pork and beef with lots of paprika. The Milano Salami is a traditional Italian sausage made from equal portion of minced beef, pork and fat, seasoned with garlic and pepper, moistened with white wine and dry cured. At Salumeria they age it for 3 months longer than the commercially available product.
The French pepper style salami uses prime selected pork and beef, naturally fermented and air dried for 5 months, covered in black pepper. ?El Merkat? Fuet Long Salami is a locally made Catalan thin, dry cured sausage of pork meat and pork intestine.
And then there is the amazing cheese collection.
Black & White cheese was a new one for me, it is a white mold cheese rolled in coconut ash made from cow?s milk, salt, rennet. It is a natural cheese originally made in West Java, now made in Bali. The Cambazola style blue cheese is made from natural local cow?s milk at Jimbaran Bay. The 'Tilsiter' I loved! It is a semi-hard yellow aged cheese made from natural local cow?s milk. It has been aged for 9 months made locally at Jimbaran Bay. It is served with a drizzle of honey.
Wanaprasta Lampuyang is a raw goat milk cheese, hand crafted in Ubud. The milk is from a special select herd of goats. It is skinned in cinnamon, tamarind and cacao ash. 'Crottin De Chavigol' is an aged goats milk cheese, with a very piquant taste. Originally from the Loire valley in France but this one is made in Jimbaran Bay. 'Ibores' is a Spanish style cheese made from goats milk, the rind is rubbed with smoked paprika and olive oil.
The Red Planet Javae is a Leicester Cheddar style cheese, made in Malang East Java, with orange colour from natural dyes. The Asiago Javae is also from Malang, it is made from pasteurized cow?s milk, ripened minimum of 3 months, and then a further 3 months at Salumeria.
To top it all off, the coffee is great too! And they even sell Cuban cigars for that after dinner relax!
What a find this place is?.A culinary experience for grown-ups!