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| 2008 End of Year Wrap | 2007 End of Year Wrap | 2006 End of Year Wrap | 2005 End of Year Wrap |
| 2004 End of Year Wrap | 2003 End of Year Wrap |
The 1970's must have been grim. Local warungs [cafes] that even made some minimal attempt of producing food that looked, or tasted, a little bit western when on the plate, became overnight sensations. Featured in many well-known, international, guide books, these establishments are today still, unfortunately, serving up the same poor imitations. Having been highlighted, on the world stage, by famous guide books [some with questionable taste], and having made much money as a result, who can really blame them?
Most of the early foreign restaurateurs did not help either, and served up some really bad examples of their supposed national cuisine, as most of them were not professionals of the hospitality trade. Some of these have since gone to the wall, as they deserved, but a few of them still exist today. Outside of the new five star hotels [some of which are also not known for their culinary delights], there was little else of quality.
But the revolution had to come!
It started in the late 1980's, and has been gathering steam ever since! It started quietly; a couple of good Cantonese restaurants, the two young Australians that built a beach house north of Seminyak at the Petitenget Temple, the French boys who looked after the catering at the wonderful Bali Bird Park then moved into their own restaurant.
In Bali today, you can eat extremely well, and choose from many different national cuisines. Furthermore, the cost is a fraction of what you would pay, for the same quality of food, in any of the world's major cities. When you add to this, for no extra charge, some of the most magnificent dining settings that you could ever imagine, then you know that you really are holidaying in the `land of the gods'.
One of the initial things a first-time visitor notices in Bali, is the almost total absence of Balinese restaurants. Most of the local eating-houses are either Chinese, Indonesian Chinese, Indonesian or the Halal [Muslim] Padang food of Sumatra. The Balinese must be one of the few world cultures for whom eating is not a social habit. At their many ceremonies everybody eats, more or less, together. And it is for such ceremonies that all of the great Balinese dishes are prepared. For any special ceremony, Babi Guling [Suckling Pig], and Sate Lilith are almost essential!
It is very rare for a family to eat a meal together, as is done in almost every other culture. Everybody eats, by themself, whenever hungry. This is often no more than a handful of cold, already cooked, rice. If a couple of people get hungry at the same time, then of course they may all go off to a local warung to eat. Only, however, because they all wanted to eat, and not for any social significance.
Now in Bali, we even have a fine dining Balinese restaurant. It is called Bumbu Bali, and has been very faithfully set up by the Hyatt's ex-chef, Heinz van Holzen. Others are quickly following, like the great little warung, Red Rice, up above Ubud at Sayan.
You can now enjoy better than average meals of many different cuisines. Chefs have come from all over the world. Some have married and stayed, whilst others have just passed on their skills to locals.
During your holiday in Bali, you will definitely not go hungry!
2008 End of Year Wrap
The Wrap of 2008!
Bali continues to go through an amazing culinary journey. Whenever I look
back at the past year, the result appears to be the same. Whilst many places
have fallen by the wayside, some deserving so to do, others sad victims of
circumstance, the constant stream of new and sometimes exciting new
restaurants continues to eventuate.
The Bali of today boasts of many top-flight chefs. Just as many as can often
be found in cities four times its size. Most, of course, work in the
ever-increasing number of 5 star and boutique hotels and luxury villa
complexes that are forever opening, all over the island. Others are finding
their own style of peace in Bali, opening restaurants of their own, at both
ends of the scale, classic dining down to great value mid range dining. As
important is the ever increasing number of experienced restaurateurs who are
arriving, to drive the revolution!
Another milestone has been achieved in 2008 with many locals taking up the
challenge, significantly upgrading their places or taking on new ventures.
Of course, as anywhere else in the world, there are also the
well-intentioned amateurs who think running a restaurant is a breeze, most
open and then crash! It is a breeze, but only for those who know how.
The BaliEats web site [www.balieats.com] now lists 650 restaurants of some
54 different cuisines, the majority of which present high quality food at an
amazingly low cost. During 2008, of the 200+ new restaurants that opened in
Bali 134 were of sufficient interest to feature in my regular column in The
Bali Advertiser. The following is a summary of the best of them.
Nusa Dua shows signs of coming back to life, even if it is still rather
staid. Tourist menus abound, each with a host of different cuisines, even if
few actually resemble the original. The old city is once again full of
restaurant options even if many appear to have the same menu as that next
door. Menus in Nusa Dua have always been in English, French, German and
Japanese, now most are also in Russian.
At one of the more progressive 5 star hotels, the Nusa Dua Beach Resort, a
complete revamp of their beachside bistro included a re branding, now the
Maguro Asian Bistro. The Sushi Bar still exists but added to that are many
Asian wonders and exotic variations of the norm; Crispy Prawn Dim Sum, Sushi
with lobster, mango and spring onion topped with salmon caviar or Lamb and
Goats Cheese Puffs with mint, coriander and garlic dressing.
Out on The Bypass opposite the now defunct Traggia shopping centre is Crab
House; live Mud Crabs as well as King Crabs, Lobsters and King Prawns, all
grilled to order. Along the strip that is Tanjung Benoa. Many hotels are
being extended with more rooms and pool villas being added. There are also
many new projects along this magic stretch of white sand beach. In front of
the Club Bali Mirage has appeared a Chinese restaurant. Chopsticks is its
name and Cantonese seafood its specialty with live tanks around the walls.
At the Aston Bali Resort is Giorgio, an Italian restaurant with terrace and
inside air-con seating. Unusual offerings include a Goats Cheese Pasta with
pine nuts and raisons and a risotto that is basil flavoured and comes with
scallops, parmesan and truffles.
Along the southern tip of Bali, west of Nusa Dua, is where the most amazing
developments are taking place. Following on from the Bvlgari opening last
year has been the new Karma Resort, at Ungasan. It sits breathtakingly high
on the cliff tops, their private beach a very steep funicular ride away.
Signature restaurant di Mare has been transferred from the original Jimbaran
Resort and upgraded into a fine Mediterranean experience, and offers
possibly the best site in Bali for that perfect lunch, although preferably
on a fine day as it is very open to the weather.
The words fine dining evoke memories of chandeliers, crystal glasses and
waiters as stiff as their apron fronts. That is not my idea of fine dining
in Bali. Sure, I still want the very best top quality food, and with taste
not that 5 star hotel special that is bland, even insipid, neither upsetting
guests nor exciting them. It should be presented with style but preferably
not a flash one, and a Bali smile! I do not want stern-faced European style
service or glib robot style American service [when I hear I am your server
or have a nice day I tend to want to throw up]. Karma Kandaras new di
Mare does it all for me. Nothing could be simpler than their Trio of Prawns,
big and plump; Tempura, Grilled and Chilled with matching sauces, ponzu,
remoulade and horseradish-tomato, or the Seven Herb Salad with a gorgonzola
soufflé, pears, walnuts and cider vinaigrette. The seafood is perfect, never
overcooked and dry; Alaskan Scallops with crisp prosciutto, truffle and herb
risotto. Pan-roasted Black Grouper or Moroccan spiced Ahi Tuna are other
examples.
Up on the hill at Uluwatu, PEPeNERO, copying the Trattoria style, but now
with no connection to that group, has commanded an immediate local market
for those wanting mid-range Italian style eating. Down in Jimbaran proper
Bloems offers something very different, food according to your blood type!
Did you know that if you are Type AB then Lamb Salads and Rabbit Stew are
what you should be eating? Me, Id rather order food according to my taste!
DeLicious opened next door to family member DeLighting. A few teething
troubles have caused a stuttering start, but their innovative menu includes
a perfect Pork Rib Adobo, a Phillipines specialty and some great Japanese
starters. Crispy Chicken Rolls are in the Japanese Uramaki style [maki rolls
but made inside out with the sushi rice on the outside of the nori seaweed
which encases the filling]. Very tasty indeed, but menu changes are
predicted.
On the bay at the old Karma Resort di Mare was replaced by the Karma Steak
House, Balis first specialty steak house, this one specializes in Wagyu
beef, using a variety of different grades, each to suit the dish in
question. Just do not forget the Maryland style Crab Cakes to start, they
are amazing! Dining at the two Karma restaurants only confirms the obvious
talents of their Exec Chef, Raymond Saja. Not self-promoting as are others
on the island, he just does it with food on the table rather than with a
constant barrage of PR releases.
Tuban saw the arrival of Queens of India. Sited at the entrance to the old
popular Dynasty Hotel, it is an offshoot of the highly successful Queens
Tandoor in Seminyak. They offer many of the same dry [from the tandoor] and
wet curries plus an interesting attempt at Fusion. Their Sizzlers start with
a mini preparation in the tandoor after which the meat is sliced and added
to mushrooms and other vegetables in the wok, Chinese style. The Chicken
Sizzler is one of those dishes you just cannot stop eating. Out on The
Bypass is the quaintly named Red Soup, and that is all they serve, Sup
Merah. Evidently a Javanese specialty it is made with of a base of tomatoes
with sliced vegetables, chicken, beef sausage and shrimps added. A basket of
large croutons can be thrown in as well.
Kuta did not do much other than add a new live music venue and restaurant at
Eikon. In central Kuta a small Belgian café opened offering many cuisine
specials, Café Local. All the other activity of note was out on Sunset Road,
where the failures still seem to exceed the successes. Sushi Tei is yet
another big budget Java enterprise. They have seating for hundreds and a
sushi train inside that parades all the cheaper simple Sushi examples, but
those on the menu are more exotic than traditional. Not a cheap visit for
pre-made Sushi.
Legian saw the Café Marzano from Seminyak quickly move into the well
situated terrace café that was Cosy Corner. An instant success from day of
opening and though smaller will probably even surpass their Jln. Kunti
numbers. Also in Legian was Nine, apparently one of Balis most jinxed sites
as it has housed a steady stream of failures for almost 10 years, RHUM and
Barcelona were just two of them.
The Seminyak-Kerobokan area had its usual rush of new restaurants, some
totally new but most replacing previously failed ones. Mannekepis took the
early honours with many well prepared Belgian and Dutch dishes on a very
popular menu. Wild Orchid [Paon by day] offers Thai cuisine at the new
highly controversial Anantara Resort. Sip Wine Bar took over the Spaghetti
Jazz site and presents top end wine by the glass accompanied by food from
French master chef Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola], just a shame he has to
work in a kitchen smaller than most bathrooms. He deserves better.
Ryoshi moved next door from their home of many years, into a completely
rebuilt Kura Kura. Now with twice the size and parking at the rear, it has
proved to be a very seamless move. Twas always full, still is! This Ryoshi
has the best value fresh sushi in Bali. At the Kerobokan end, just off
Sunset Road is an enterprising newcomer, Barocco. It is a pasticceria with
sensational pastries that are almost an art form. Great coffee too, and from
the real machine, hand pumped by the barista.
Sorriso was one of the years big surprises. It is Babys baby! Well known
hospitality personality ex Gado-Gado, Baby now has her own Italian
restaurant [with a bit of influence from her husband]. Good Italian food
served in a simple style. Not fine dining just great value and taste. Their
Scalloppine is local beef but as good as many imported versions and at a
fraction of the price. A very lively bar and happy young service staff make
Sorriso a good night out, anytime!
Kerobokan hosted its usual rash of new restaurants, many of which have
already closed. Those remaining include Chandi with an innovative menu that
struggled with supply for a time, a problem that now appears to have been
overcome. Famed Eat Street is virtually no more. Escalating rents
[affordable by fashion houses alone] and a total lack of parking has seen a
constant move around the corner to Raya Petitenget. Others who braved the
conditions to open up included K2, next door to big brother Kaizan, it
offers Izakaya style eating, many small plates almost Japanese Tapas, it is
packed every day as value wins out one more time in this area. Carliz Art &
Café is Asian, mostly Chinese, and has Hainan Chicken Rice on its menu. Not
far away is the Wah Wah Burger & Wine Bar. What a combination: a Japanese
version of a burger bar. Out on Raya Kerobokan, behind the Rich Villas is a
Thai restaurant with a very complete menu that includes some dishes rarely
seen in Bali such as Poo Jaa, a deep-fried crab shell stuffed with a mix of
minced pork, crab and spices.
On the Petitenget side was the short lived DayDream and the popular Pizza
Telese a late night hangout for that last minute snack. Star performer for
this area, and for that matter Bali as well, was the long awaited opening of
Sarong. Will Meyrick had already earned his reputation opening both Husk and
Blossom, and the foodies of Bali could not wait filling the restaurant from
first night onwards. A tantalizing mix of his well-known Thai [crisp pieces
of Pork Hock in tamarind and tamarillo] with spicy Indian [Vindaloo of Pork
Belly], a little Vietnamese and Indonesian and even a couple of Szechuan
creations [the spiced Tuna is very special]. Some of the exotic Dim Sums are
worth a visit alone
Across from the Kerobokan Jail is the wonderful La Cantina with dishes from
North Vietnam and other Asian specials in a totally relaxing atmosphere.
Behind this area is the French owned Vivalavi Villas, their pleasant
poolside restaurant is due for an imminent lift with a French chef on the
way. Sundays has already become a real family day here for the locals
expats. Further west towards Canggu is the Umalas Riding School. Their
pleasant garden restaurant at the rear of the property has been in many
different management hands over the years but at last one has found success.
Lestari Grill & Pasta offers some wonderful pasta dishes including a Ravioli
stuffed with Roquefort cheese and crushed walnuts. Their Slow Cooking
Gourmet nights are eagerly awaited every month. The man behind Uns, one of
Balis original success stories, has done it again.
In the Canggu area a steady stream of new ventures as the local population
continues to increase with new villas sprouting up everywhere. Almost beside
the very popular The Beach House on Echo Beach is Sol, but instead of
copying the International menu of its neighbour Sol offers a variety of
Balinese dishes such as Pepes Ikan and Tum Ayam. On the main road to Canggu
and Tanah Lot is Snapper Corner, an offshoot of the very popular Wrap a
Snapper [ex Eat Street] which moved to Gili Trawangan. Not only fresh
deep-fried fish with crunchy chips but also those great Aussie Potato
Scallops [sliced potato dipped in a light batter then deep-fried].
Renon, Denpasar, saw the opening of many small eateries and one big one,
Bumbu Desa with a monster selection of pre-cooked food. However they lost
the great Feyloon with its very genuine Cantonese food, specializing in
seafood from the many live tanks around the walls. It re-opens on Raya Kuta
early in 2009.
Sanur continued its revival, but in many cases in the hands of locals. Old
warungs and homestay dining areas are being renovated and not just the
buildings, the menus as well.
Little India was a new Indian restaurant [previously around the corner as
Maharani] with great Martabaks. Street Café is under the same management as
last years Beach Café. Simple menus with a buffet Salad Bar included,
inside air-conditioning and outside garden terrace, set 3 course lunches at
$5 and free wi-fi, it is no wonder that it has been very busy since opening.
Occasional live music in the evenings packs them in as well. Now open for
breakfast with Eggs poached in a chilli salsa the star performer.
Triana is a classy Spanish restaurant that presents free tapas at the bar to
all drinkers. Their Garlic Chicken is sensational, the meat so tender and
juicy, the Tortilla is a real Spanish Omelette and the White Sangria is a
blend of white wine, champagne and sugar studded with small diced fruits and
ice cubes, this is the way they make it in Andalucia. A couple of secret
spices give it a final finish, so refreshing!
DTopeng opened after a very lengthy fit out from the old Istana Gardens, as
there were no buyers it re-opened under the same old management. At the
other end of Sanur was Spikes Downtown Café, very American, as well as the
mandatory burgers and hot dogs they have Popcorn Shrimp, Gumbo and Steak
Stuffers. Charming is a garden restaurant with French cuisine under the same
management as Ming Le Resto, a long time Sanur tradition.
The revolution in Ubud virtually stopped. No wonder with so many new places
having opened during the past 5 years. Indochine opened at the very grand
The Mansion, you feel as if you are dining with royalty. Their cuisine is
Vietnamese with a French touch. The Quails Eggs [avec Cacachuette] are
sensational. The slow cooked beef has a refreshing taste of cinnamon. In
Penestenan Bayus Kitchen offers local cuisine from a hygienic kitchen, even
a modern BBQ, the seating area way upmarket for this style, great value!
Pignou di Penyu offers French at warung prices, snacks and mains. Asian
Prophecy serves tasty snacks [shiitake mushroom rolls] and now has a
Japanese Bakery as well. Tropical Seafood & Grill opened at the top of
Monkey Forest Road, and was immediately packed, day and night. Part of a
Nusa Dua chain it has the usual multi-paged multi-language menu. Black Beach
opened [no beach in sight, only rice paddies], a Spaghetteria with 16
different styles.
Amed continued its opening and re-opening of small locally operated warungs.
Warung Bobo II is at Jemuluk, at the edge of the waves, popular at sunset.
Warung Kadek, opened in central Lipah, a mix of local fare and International
snacks. Maharasta 2 has closed for a major refit [the old TPC], their first
main season a success so re-investing for 2009.
High up in the cool mountains of Bedugul is Seoul Garden, a Korean
restaurant that really is in a garden, in fact little air con rooms that
used to be hothouses for a market garden. Warming food such as Bulgogi and
Grilled Pork Belly [quaintly called pork with fat].
Lovina only saw minimal change. The opening of Le Gong in the well hidden
Bali Paradise Hotel was kept a secret. As the small hotel is always full
they have not gone out seeking much publicity. Barclona is owned by a Babi
Guling family and they have developed a special Pepesan Babi Guling wrapping
the soft pork meat with spices [tomato, ginger, candlenut, turmeric, onions
and garlic] in banana leaves. Le Madre is a small Italian warung that offers
incredibly cheap breakfasts, $2 for eggs, bacon and hash browns.
Once again, 2009 promises much. Down south will open the mammoth Banyan Tree
Resort and Alila Villas. Zingara in Petitenget from the long time operators
of Kafe Warisan plus whatever the old Kafe Warisan becomes. Not far away
will be the W Hotel, a brand which specializes in fine cuisines. There are
rumours of a Vietnamese Café up in Uluwatu. Ubud sees a major Thai
restaurant [on the site of the old Barandi], a possible Turkish restaurant,
and maybe a very traditional Korean, as well as the re-opened enlarged Flava
Lounge near the Arma entrance.
Bali just keeps on getting better, and the great value remains the same!
Best New Restaurants - 2008
Best Fine Dining Di Mare - Ungasan
- Sensational location and food at the new Karma Kandara. Mediterranean
style and setting featuring the classic cuisine of Raymond Saja.
Best Restaurant Sarong - Kerobokan
- Everyone was waiting for it, and they got what they had been waiting for.
A blend of Thai, Indian, Vietnamese, Indonesian and Chinese but all done
with flair, passion and feeling. The real taste of Asia! Will Meyrick at his
best!
Best Value Sorriso - Seminyak
- Its fun, its stylish and its great value. Simple Italian food done well.
Pasta with sauces you can taste, Scalloppine that is tender. A fun place to
visit.
Best Cafe Street Café - Sanur
- A lounge bar and a cool, clean café, all with free internet access.
Snacks, meals and drinks all very cheap! Freshly baked Turkish bread. Live
music some evenings. Now breakfast as well.
Best Cheapie Pregina - Sanur
- Local and sensational. Very traditional Balinese [chicken is Siap not
Ayam], always tasty and at an average of $3 for mains. This is more than
just a warung, the stylish but simple fit out says it all. Someone knows
what they are doing.
2007 End of Year Wrap
The Wrap of 2007!
Bali is going through an amazing culinary journey. Not that many years ago the food offerings in Bali were mostly devoid of taste and value, both locals and foreigners operating restaurants that they believed presented cuisines of the world. Only one thing was missing, and that was the professional knowledge that can only come by experience, having been trained at the highest level.
The Bali of today boasts of many top-flight chefs. As many as can often be found in cities four times its size. Most, of course, work in the ever-increasing number of 5 star and boutique hotels and luxury villa complexes that seem to be opening almost monthly, all over the island. Others are finding their own style of peace in Bali, opening restaurants of their own, at both ends of the scale, classic dining down to great value mid range dining. As important is the ever increasing number of experienced restaurateurs who are arriving, to drive the revolution!
The BaliEats web site [www.balieats.com] now lists restaurants of some 54 different cuisines, the majority of which present high quality food at an amazingly low cost. During 2007 another 85 new restaurants opened in Bali that were of sufficient interest and quality to feature in my regular column in The Bali Advertiser. The following is a summary of the best of them.
Because of the high concentration of large 5 star hotels in the Nusa Dua and Tandjung Benoa area there has always been a lack of outside credible options. Needless to say many of the hotels have 5 or 6 outlets offering a variety of cuisines in order to keep their guests on the premises. The old city used to offer a range of moderately priced options, to tempt guests outside of the comfort of their hotels. This area suffered most from the Bali calamities, earlier in the decade, and only now shows signs of new life, but their entrance from the Nusa Dua hotel complex had currently been sealed off.
The Bali Collection replaced the Nusa Dua Gallery but has not been over-endowed with custom. One of its better restaurants, Tepi Laut, has moved recently to a more prominent position close to the main entrance, changed its name to Gedong Cafe and presents great value high quality cuisine. Their Giant Seafood Grill is one of their most popular offerings. In the old village the new Laguna Garden is typical of most, offering many different cuisines, what we call a tourist menu. Originally all menus in this area were in 3-4 languages, now almost without exception a Russian translation has been added.
At one of the newest hotels, Nusa Dua Novotel, which borders the golf course, is The Square, which considering the name is a strangely oval space with quite a range of modern and innovative cuisine at very reasonable prices for a hotel, Pomegranate-glazed Quail an example. Down in Tandjung Benoa is Lucky Duck, which not surprisingly features duck on the menu, done many different ways. Whilst the Duck Burger and the Duck Pizza are most unusual, Roast Duck, Confit of Duck and a Grilled Duck with an orange glaze are far more traditional. There is also their version of Ubuds Crispy Duck.
Tuban saw the arrival of old Kuta stalwart, Mini. Almost as big as the still functioning original but modern, clean and sparkling. This Mini has the same menu mix of live seafood, grilled or pan-fried, a myriad of accompanying dipping sauces, and a full menu of Indonesian Chinese favourites, all at reasonable prices. Their Mixed Seafood Special of Prawns, Fish, Crab, Squid, Clams and Lobster meat at Rp. 94,000++ is a showstopper!
Ifiori opened on the site of the ill-fated Wet, in Jln. Kartika Plaza, in front of Waterbom Park. It is a two level restaurant offering good value Italian food, and under the same management as Pappas in Legian. Further along at the Ramayana complex is Gabah, which was initially under the direction of Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola].
At Kuta all of the restaurants that opened were out on the new Bypass, Sunset Road, although many of those who originally opened there have already closed. The later ones are more grand and with more experience behind them. Sushi Tei is a branch of Japans largest Sushi franchise which includes the first sushi train in Bali. The a la carte selection is enormous, some traditional others modern and with unusual combinations. The Grill House is Korean and features Bulgogi, marinated beef that you cook at the table, or you can grill Modemgui [Japanese style Shasliks], Sweet Beef or Pork Ribs [Doeji Galbi] on the grill in the centre of your table.
Harmony looks like a Chinese restaurant and it is except that all the meat [beef, pork, duck and chicken] and seafood [fish, prawns and squid] dishes are vegetarian versions thereof. They are all made from soya bean but presented as the real thing, and in many cases with the authentic sauces and flavouring they almost deceive. There is Beijing Smoked Duck, Babi Panggang [roasted pork], Cumi Tong Yam [squid with a tangy Cantonese sauce], and even imitation sardines, Ikan Sardencis with chilli and tomato, which happens to be just about their most popular dish.
The Seminyak-Kerobokan area had its usual rush of new restaurants, some totally new but most replacing previously failed ones. The Chat Café, under the guiding hands of Marinos [ex Mykonos Tavernas] led the way with a café/lounge bar that worked from the first week. Apart from cheap tasty food they also offer free internet, as do an ever-increasing number of cafes and small restaurants in Bali, though so far mostly in the Seminyak and Ubud areas. Just down the road is Café Marzano, totally Italian, featuring wood-fired pizzas, pastas galore and many Italians.
Nirvana opened on the site of the old Spy Bar, a stylish bar at the front and French restaurant in the rear garden courtyard. Across the road was the immediately successful San Marco Osteria, which closed prematurely due the tragic sudden death of Mr. Sin.
On the main road the old Afghan restaurant re-opened as Kholifar with similar offerings of Middle Eastern cuisine such as entrees of Lahem Bilajeen [three crisp fried pastry shells stuffed with a spicy lamb mince], mains of Chicken or Mutton Vegetable Korma [with onions, potatoes, green chillies, garlic and ginger, all slowly cooked] or a high fibre vegetarian dish, Chole Maslah [chickpeas, tomato, onion and garlic]. All to be enjoyed whilst seated amongst Arabian and Persian carpets. The Swedish Veranda became the Brazilian Rio [under Finnish management] offering a full Brazilian Churrasco [5 salad starters followed by 7 different meats all cut from the giant skewer, after being cooked in the flames. Includes a Pork in Marsala and a perfect Australian tenderloin, as well as an interesting selection of a la carte items.
Kerobokan hosted its usual rash of new restaurants, many of which have already closed. Those remaining include Med with a Pecan-crusted Chicken with a honey orange cream sauce or Moroccan Prawns with a tabouleh cous-cous and a spicy harisa, and Sasa offering entrees such as Sepplioline alla Griglia con Patate e Insalata [grilled baby squids served with a warm potato salad] or a home-made pasta such as Fettuccine con Gamberi [with king prawns with wine and herbs]. Café Bali opened in colonial style premises next to big brother, Khaima, offering entrees from around the world.
Others on Eat Street included Fresh, a sushi bar operated by the ex-manager of the very popular trendy Wasabi of a few years back [extraordinary California Rolls wrapped around Foie Gras, duck liver and mango with hazelnuts, as well as other options including Spicy Butterfish or Salmon, Scallop and Cream Cheese]. Mezzo became only the 2nd on the street to offer cool air-conditioned premises as well as the first with a rear garden courtyard. It has simple food well presented, including very cheap full breakfasts, and special coffee blends, including Ethiopian, making it a place to constantly return to.
Grocer & Grind provided something very different with its very Australian bistro style and accompanying deli. Normal egg breakfasts; Benedict, Florentine or just Eggs with choice of bacon, lamb sausage, mushrooms or rosti. For lunch; snacks, salads or a perfect Panini on Ciabattini. Dinner is all change with casual bistro dining such as their Prawn Cherviche, juicy prawns tossed with sliced mango in coriander, meaty Lamb Sausages or large very tender Lamb Shanks.
In the Sentosa Villas was Blossom, something so new for Bali! From the designers of Australias trendy Longrain restaurants there are similarities but this one has style and class! It began with wonderful Thai food from Will Meyrick and quickly established itself as one of Asias finest! Within a few short months Blossom achieved what many others fail to do at all, yet a management decision saw the departure of their chef. A ready replacement was fortunately available; Chris Patzold, well known to Balis diners after being the original chef at Ku de Ta [back when the food was both great and cheap] and subsequently at Axiom. The most popular Thai offerings have been retained but now with the addition of the Patzold signature dishes. Best of both worlds!
On the Petitenget side was Eropa Warung with French food at warung prices and Da Margherita with classical Italian dishes, also very reasonably priced. Dahana, still a secret to most in Bali, was the surprise of this area. It is a private house and gallery that hosts a family-style Japanese restaurant in a garden setting. Almost hidden behind a white wall and private entrance.
Around the back of the Kerobokan Jail a totally authentic Hungarian restaurant to be found, Bistro Budapest, featuring Gulyasleves [Goulash] in every form. The famous soup combines beef, carrots and potato in a rich paprika broth, but there are also many forms with stewed meat; Sertesporkoct [pork], Paprikascsirke [chicken], Marhaporkoct [beef], and for the vegetarians, Gombaporkoct with mushrooms.
Renon, Denpasar, saw the opening of Kowloon, quickly changing its name to Feyloon. Genuine Cantonese food, specializing in seafood from the many live tanks around the walls.
Sanur continued its revival. New restaurants such as the Russian Slavyanka offer a new variety in fine dining [Shaved Frozen Venison with a pinch of salt, Caviar of every type, Chicken Livers with apple and onion and the Ukranian Borsh [a hearty soup of pork, potatoes cabbage, onion, carrot and beetroot]. SixPoint opened with a very International menu [they are an offshoot of Papas] that included Grilled Turkey Breast. Coriander has a range of Thai cuisine, Red and Green Curries, Tod Mun Pla [fish cakes], Yum Neau [seared marinated beef strips with cooling cucumber], among its International offerings. Piccadilly replaced the long gone Mykonos, more of a pub than restaurant. The Porch Café offers wonderful sandwiches, salads and small daily specials.
The revolution in Ubud slowed to a walk. No wonder with so many new places opening over the past 5 years. In Sanggingan is Man Maru opened, mainly Japanese [wonderful terryaki] with a few spicy Korean offerings [sliced lotus bulb]. Up on the hill at Penestanan was one of the finds of the year. Mendez, longtime personal chef for Warwick Purser, opened his own small warung offering Goat Legs and Beef Ribs, using old Yogya recipes, simmering for hours then marinating in Javanese spice pastes. Sweet tender meat, wonderful value in simple surroundings. $10 for two, what value!
Candi Dasa continued to slowly get its act together. The revamped Rama CandiDasa opened Garpu, under the direction of Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola]. At that stage the food presented was quite exceptional, wonderful breads baked on the premises, pates en croute, etc. Now we wait with baited breath for the opening of Patricks new bistro restaurant in Seminyak, Feb 2008! A quiet achiever in the northern part of Candi Dasa was Aquaria, a New Zealand operation with just a choice of two dishes, entrée, main and dessert, for lunch and dinner [one always a vegetarian option] at their pleasant small boutique hotel. Simple food and great value in a pleasant relaxed location.
Amed continued its opening and re-opening of small locally operated warungs. The successful Wayans Warung opened a 2nd, Café Cest Bon, opposite Santai, TPC became Maharasti II, the rebuilt Vienna Beach now offers a smart restaurant with new immaculately clean kitchen, and some of the best beach views in the area. For something completely different another New Zealand operation began at Sails [eventually to be a part of the Horizon Resort], on the headland between Lipah Beach and Lean. It has sensational ocean views. Some Western [Steaks and Ribs], some Indo Chinese [Chicken Mandarin] but all cooked a little different from other local places, a cut above the rest!
Lovina saw the demise of a few and the arrival of a whole host of newbies; Amadeus has an Austrian influence, Wiener Schnitchels and Goulash on certain days. Down at the beach is a mall place with value, Tropis Bistro, with the chef and menu from the old Kwizien [Pate des Ardennes, Steak Rocquefort, etc.]. Surprising newcomer is Chonos, a BBQ restaurant with a difference! A tray of lava stones are inlaid into the top of smart wooden tables, seated above a gas ring. Order your meats and show what you can do. This place is going to become very popular! Congrats to people who dare to be different!
Once again, 2008 promises much. A new Thai restaurant, opposite Gado-Gado, and a French Bistro with one of Balis greatest chefs, both in Seminyak. To cap it all off the return of the prodigal one more time, small select Thai, Vietnamese and Malay Indian menus at Will Meyricks new venture [site of the old Esmerada] in Jln Petitenget, Kerobokan.
Bali just keeps on getting better, and the great value remains the same!
Gerry Williams
gerry@balieats.com
Best New Restaurants of 2007
Best Fine Dining Blossom - Kerobokan
Sensational setting and food. Cuisine is a blend of Thai and Contemporary Australian [Mod OZ].
Best Restaurant Grocer & Grind - Kerobokan
A Bistro & Deli, all the way from Australia. Breakfasts and snacks during the day, great dining at night!
Best Value Rio - Seminyak
Brazilian Churrasco, large slabs of marinated meat speared on a sword and cooked in the flames, all for $15.
Best North Bali Chonos - Lovina
Innovative Table BBQ upstairs in main restaurant, Many Dutch treats downstairs in garden pool-side café.
Best Cafe Chat Café - Seminyak
A lounge bar and a cool, clean café, all with free internet access. Snacks, meals and drinks all very cheap!
Best Cheapie Warung Mendez - Ubud
A chef from Solo, with recipes from Jogykarta. Goat meat [and local beef] specially prepared&.. so tender, so tasty, so cheap!
2006 End of Year Wrap
The Wrap of 2006!
My first thoughts, when I recalled the happenings of 2006 was that for the
first time in recent years the numbers of restaurant closures may have
exceeded new openings. How wrong I was! 65 new restaurants alone have been
mentioned in my column during the year, although some of those have already
gone and others are close to following.
Nusa Dua is coming back, Sanur is waking up and there is even a shock or two
in sleepy Lovina! The Seminyak/Kerobokan and Ubud areas are now proving to
be very difficult new markets for the inexperienced with many new/old places
struggling to survive.
Nusa Dua has seen a plethora of new/upgraded restaurants inside the 5 star
hotel strip ever since those fateful events of 2001/2. No doubt the concept
was to increase in-house spending but it also makes it more difficult for
outside restaurants to become established.
The best of two worlds was Tao in Tanjung Benoa [a part of Ramada Benoa but
separate location, beachside]. Tao is Asian, with the main accent on Thai
cuisine. From China is Hoi Co, chicken, crab meat and vegetables wrapped in
fried bean curd like a string of mini sausages. From neighbouring Vietnam
comes their wonderful version of the humble spring roll, Goi Cuon.
Star performer of Nusa Dua was the revamped Italian Restaurant at Amanusa.
Such a classical room, combined with its magic poolside setting, just has to
operate as a fine dining restaurant. Now it does, once again. Amongst the
seafood masterpieces is Acqua Pazza, a combination of lobster, prawns,
clams, cuttlefish and reef fish in a tomato saffron sauce. It is cooked in a
'paper bag', and arrives at your table that way. As soon as you open the bag
you are hit with a blast of that unique saffron aroma, which persists as you
devour each piece of perfect seafood. Their sensational Pork Belly dish has
been slowly braised for three hours, and is served with cavolo nero [black
cabbage]. It is one of those dishes that you eat very slowly, savouring
every mouthful.
The Bali Collection replaced what was the Galleria Nusa Dua. It is a
collection of many things including restaurants; Coco Bistro and Paon are
International, Musashi is Japanese and Uno is Italian, but the most
attractive newcomer in this area is Tepi Laut, small with a tree shaded
courtyard it is opposite the entrance to the SOGO department store at the
top end of the estate [accessed from a small parking area nearby]. They
specialize in seafood with their Giant Seafood Grill outstanding. In the old
city section of Nusa Dua there used to be many restaurants, most closed
after the disasters. Old ones are now being renovated and new ones getting
ready to open. Dewi Shri is one of them. Modern and clean it offers great
value. Their cuisine is a mix of Balinese and International with menu
descriptions in German as well as English. Up on the mountain at the new
Swiss-Bel Bayview Hotel is The Sky Terrace with views all along the Bali
coast. Enjoy modern International cuisine on the roof of the highest
building in Bali.
Jimbaran and Tuban saw little new action with more than a few closures.
Whereas Kuta was a mix of closures and openings, some of them strange. Star
Anise joined the bakery/café corner but did not make an impression, maybe
too much Jakarta style. Fuel [without food] became Hook [without food] which
is now Hook, with food! Confused? Just for the night owls anyway. In the
back streets of Kuta, yet another Stiff Chilli Café opened with pizzas and
pasta for the backpackers and visiting rugby players. Two new Chinese
restaurants happened upon the scene. The Palace specializing in Dim Sum
[queues on Sundays] and Ban Dar, specializing in live seafood. Urban Food
Station opened with its all night New-York/Indonesian fare at Jakarta
prices.
Best new action in Kuta was the opening of a 2nd Ketupat, an impressive
building, a modern copy of their original restaurant in Kuta [swimming pool
lined with private bales, with a terrace overlooking all] offering great
Indonesian food at value prices. The menu covers the entire archipelago of
Indonesia with Ayam Limao [from Kalimantan], Kare Kambing Palembang [real
goat curry from Sumatra], Udang Mabok [stir-fried prawns in chilli, basil
and arak] and our long time favourite; Quail Eggs Sambal Karido [in chilli
and lime from Irian Jaya].
Legian was a mixed bag with some new restaurants not even seeing the year
out. Best newcomer was The Flying Piano with its Fondue specials [beef and
Swiss cheese both available]. It is Bali's most unusual restaurant with its
owner, Pedro, entertaining every evening with his incredible classic
improvisations on the grand piano. Rituals also opened on Jln. Legian,
offering a mix of modern international dishes.
Seminyak became home to a real Spanish restaurant, La Sal. Tapas that are
really large entrees [Tempura Sardines, baby ones that are crumbed and fried
served with a shot glass of warm aioli foam or Crunchy Mushrooms, soft and
juicy inside their crunchy exterior, served with a shot glass of red
capsicum aioli]. The Crisp Pork Belly with casseroled lentils and mango is
great but the Twice Cooked Lamb with tarragon juice is worth the visit to La
Sal alone! And then there are the four different Paellas.
Rush Bamboo opened poolside at the boutique villa complex, The Elysian, with
its classy Asian Fusion. Joulla's is German [Rouladen, Schweinebraten, etc.]
and D'Java has quickly become one of the all night place of choice in Drink
Street for Indonesian meals.
Many closed in Kerobokan and more opened. Hombres quickly replaced Favela
Chic with Spanish/Mediterranean, and yet two more Italian restaurants,
Osteria Telese [home-cooking style] and Pandora with a range of exotic
pizzas, and things. The little Tuckshop on the corner offers breakfasts,
healthy and normal, as well as savoury muffins, sandwiches, baguettes and
bagels.
The sensation of the area was the upgrading of Alang-Alang at The Samaya to
an ultra-modern bistro on the beach, called Breeze. Sensational food such as
an entrée of Pan Seared Foie Gras and Sweetbread-Asparagus Ravioli in a
morel cream sauce and a 'Duck Tasting', duck done three different ways; two
generous slices of pink U.S. Duck Breast sitting on small pumpkin gnocchis,
in a cola-soda-chilli sauce, Stuffed Duck Neck on a perfect mound of
vegetable tabbouleh salad with red onion jam, and finally a Smoked Duck and
Mushroom Ragout in an open crisp basket sitting on a base of corn and
roasted pepper relish.
In Denpasar not a lot changed other than for the local market. In the Renon
area Ikan Bakar Cianjur opened, with a car park that is almost always full.
This slick Java chain offshoot offers many variations with Nila or Gurame
fish. Other new restaurants soon opened nearby, but their car parks remain
mostly empty.
Sanur continued its wake up from the dead with a steady stream of new
professionally managed options. From the ruins of the trashed Semawang
Beach, Café Bombay was transformed into two restaurants on the main street;
Seahorse [general international specializing in seafood and offering great
value] and the wonderful Clay Oven, presenting perfect Indian food from the
Tandoors of a master chef. The Chicken Roll is a breast of chicken stuffed
with minced chicken and prawns before being roasted in the tandoor, a
masterpiece! Top of the range is definitely their Raan Bahar. It is cut from
a leg of lamb that has been marinated overnight, partly cooked in the
tandoor, before finishing off by being simmered in onion gravy.
The new Pregina made a change from the usual warungs of the area, clean and
friendly it offers a few things a little different, such as Vietnamese Prawn
Meat on Sugarcane. Batu Jimbar moved from its original location to new
modern premises with a tree-lined front courtyard. Koki's returned to its
roots and became Korean, Bulgogi, Kim-chi and all. La BaR'racca replaced
Mama Lucia's, but retained virtually the same pasta menu. Café Amsterdam
moved down the road to become Double Dutch [croquettes, bitterballen, etc]
and The Sanur Beach Hotel opened up its attractive seafront area with their
Tirta Seafood Grill [Jimbaran style] and at the other end of the beach,
Sindhu, was the simply named Beach Café. It has great breakfasts,
sandwiches, snacks and meals, to be taken either on the sand under the
trees, or inside on the terrace.
La Pau finally found a home. Originally it was just a weekend late night
warung in front of Natribu, then followed a stint in the unsuccessful food
court at Discovery. Now it is open lunch and dinner, with extended late
nights on the weekend, even live jazz played under the trees. Good Padang
food at very cheap prices, their Beef Rendang a specialty. Late at night
play 'spot the celebrity!'.
Ubud saw the usual number of new openings. The year started with Casa Pasta
on the site of the old Bebel Bengill II, but still under the same
management. The restaurant is Italian and the accompanying late night
bar/disco, very international. Dragonfly opened in Coffee Street offering a
mix of Asian Fusion at value prices with the Juice Ja Café [wheatgrass juice
their specialty] next door. Aashiana is across the football field from
Monkey Forest Rd., offering two menus, Chinese and Indian. A host of new
cafes; Rendezvousdoux combines books, coffee and snacks whilst Café Moka
does the usual pastries, cakes and light meals. Up in Pengosekan is Flava
Lounge, combining great snacks [pizzas and things] with a nice drinking
ambience.
Barberkyu replaced the original Bali Pesto [which moved 50 metres down the
road to enlarged premises] offering their trademark good value food, and
Yamato became another Japanese option for Ubud, small but very busy.
In Amed two new attractive cafes, Blue Star and Coral Café on the southern
end of Jemeluk beach, but unfortunately not offering any great improvement
in food. However we look forward to a few new restaurants that are about to
open in the Lipah area, as well as the 2007 re-opening of the all-new Vienna
Beach.
Finally, even sleepy old Lovina, on Bali's northern coast, appears to be
waking from the dead! Before there were many warungs/cafes offering general
tourist-style menus, and the upmarket hotels, with nothing in between.
Kwizien stepped into the breach with a modern European bistro cuisine, and
even a comprehensive wine list. Needless to say, it immediately developed
its band of followers. Now the new Lovina Bakery has also continued the same
professional surge with German breads baked daily and a range of European
sausages and meats for local consumption or to take away.
2006 presented us with yet another crop of sensational new restaurants. Can
anywhere else in Asia offer such a range of ethnic choices, at these
incredible good value prices? And then there are the unique locations of
Bali, whether they are by the beach, or overlooking oceans, rivers or
mountains, to say nothing of that Balinese friendliness that welcomes
everyone, without question.
What will 2007 bring? It looks like being more of the same. The very
upmarket Bulgari has already opened, and their restaurants will be reviewed
early in the year. Karma opens up in Uluwatu, with the relocation of their
di Mare restaurant. At Sentosa Villas in Kerobokan, an enormous fine dining
restaurant is to be presided over by Will Merryck, making a welcome return
to Bali.
Gerry Williams
gerry@balieats.com
Best New Restaurants of 2006
Best Fine Dining The Italian Restaurant - Nusa Dua
Elegant room fronted by
a magic poolside terrace offering the very best of Italian cuisine.
Best Restaurant Breeze - Kerobokan
New beachside restaurant with some of
the best food in Bali. A chef with imagination!
Best Value Clay Oven - Sanur
Sensational food from the Tandoors of a
master chef. Wonderful value!
Best North Bali Kwizien - Lovina
Modern European bistro, professional
service, nice bar, a full wine list and a comfortable ambience.
Best Cafe Beach Café - Sanur
On the beach at Sindhu, great breakfasts,
sandwiches, snacks and meals.
Best Cheapie La Pau - Sanur
Now in a home of its own, Padang food at all
hours of the night. At weekends also jazz in the garden. Cheap!
2005 End of Year Wrap
Bali...Great Food...Great Value!
At this time, every year, when I look back over the list of new restaurants that have opened, I am amazed at the ever-increasing number of quality options that Bali has to offer. These days professionally run operations abound, the ethnic choices continue to grow and the settings in which some of these new restaurants are located are incredible. The horrible 1980s and 90s are almost a memory, albeit a bad one, although there are still a couple of survivors from that era still offering the same rubbish, their customers either nostalgia freaks and/or totally lacking in taste.
Nusa Dua did not do much this year. Their turn comes in 2006 with the opening of the Bali Connection on the site of the old decrepit Nusa Dua Galleria. It will be an upmarket boutique retail complex, in the same open air style, containing many leading restaurants that are yet to be explored.
Tuban got itself a Ryoshi, [fresh sushi and sashimi plus the standard Ryoshi menu] and a Batan Waru [Ayam Rica-Rica a special]. Both are located, one above the other, in the grounds of the Bali Gardens Hotel, so no parking problems here. Discovery Plaza opened with a mammoth food court that did not work and has been since drastically down-sized. That popular franchise from Thailand, Black Canyon [Golden Purse and Fermented Chicken followed by an Iced Mocha], is the star performer, now having added a small café at the beach end of the ground floor.
Most of the action in Kuta was in the back streets rather than among the tourist throngs. Buddhas Belly was a big surprise on Sunset Road, successfully combining billiards and quality Thai and Vietnamese food [Vietnamese Hanoi Duck is basted with honey, balsamic and oyster sauce]. Middle Eastern food makes a comeback to Bali at Pelangi, and with the chef from Jordan the food is completely authentic. In the Kuta Galeria, the Pica Tapas Bar serves real Spanish tapas and other delights, even the occasional Suckling Pig.
Legian saw most of Jln. Padma rebuilt [and still more about to happen], and amongst the new small hotels an excellent value spot called Drops [at Casa Padma Suites]. The ever-popular Legian Beach saw the old Kafe Warna transformed into SeaSide [Baked Half Chicken, stuffed with smoked bacon and mushrooms], and the popular Bennys rebuilt as Lanai [everything from simple salads and sandwiches to full meals].
The back lane that links the now one-way system from Jln. Double Six and Padma Utara, also uncovered the value find of the year, Waroeng Asia. It is so small that if you blink you miss it as you go past, but go at the wrong time and you will have to queue for a table. It is great to be able to enjoy that Thai noodle staple, Pad Thai, tasting and costing the same as in Bangkok [Rp.20,000 and 85 Baht]. Their curries and salads are also totally authentic and similarly priced.
Seminyak had more closures than openings, as the bar war continues to attract and destroy newcomers. The Japanese-managed hotel Imperial used to be one of my favourite haunts but it became a Sofitel. The Thai restaurant at the Sofitel Seminyak as it is now called, Husk [Phanaeng curry of Beef Cheeks with chilli and Thai basil and Crispy Duck with ginger mandarin and yellow bean sauce], proved to be one of the finds of the year. At the top end of this street little Baku Dapa serves Sop Bontot to the local bar-hopping all-night crowd [Indonesian OxTail], the Best in Bali!
Queens Tandoor opened with a full complement of Indian chefs. Their chillis and other spices are imported from India. Some of the dishes here are quite spectacular, totally authentic not just adapted. The Chicken Tikka Makhanwala can only be described as luscious, the ever-so-tender chicken pieces [a 2 hour cooking process] are covered with a butter sauce, rich in the flavour of Indian chillies and spices.
Kerobokan, as usual, headed the list of greatest numbers of new restaurants, some of which have been successful whilst others have already fallen by the wayside. That great loop of road I christened Eat Street, that links Jln. Laksmana and Petitenget, once edged by rice paddies [only four years ago when Mykonos and Chitralada took the risk of opening in the middle of nowhere] is now almost an endless chain of eating houses, and more are on the way.
Warung Joglo is Javanese, open at back to the rice paddies [Ayam Pedas Manis is chicken pieces coated in a sauce that is both hot and sweet, very spicy]. Sweet Basil joined the throng of new Thai restaurants in Bali, next door to owner Nyomans famous Sate Bali [still the best Balinese food in town]. Sequenza opened as Taste Restaurant but still has the same French menu as Taste Warung? Rays came and went as it appears that Favela Chic has followed suit.
The attractive Kaizan is a plush Ryoshi downstairs with a Korean rooftop restaurant above. Wild Ginger was to be Thai but then became Asian [Beef Roll is stuffed with red peppers, button mushrooms, cucumber, chives and Wakame seaweed and served with a sauce of mustard and wasabi]. The Metro took over the next door failed nightclub Taj Mahal [Goa 2001] and turned it into a 24 hour sports bar and restaurant. Lotus joined the street by redeveloping Mishas and presenting fresh grilled seafood [and wood-fired pizzas] as Lotus Grill.
SoHo took the plunge and opened as a 24 hour café [even all day breakfasts] and has been busy from the beginning. Their Reuben Sandwich is very New York Deli! Hot Pastrami with Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and a Russian dressing between toasted slabs of rye bread, very good!.
In Sanur the Emerald Garden Bistro became The Aviary and added some birds in cages and a few Thai dishes to its menu. Figaro [5 Spiced Tenderloin of Pork is with hoisin sauce] emerged on the site of the original Village, whilst a New Village appeared in front of the Santrian Hotel. Café Amsterdam serves Uitmisjter, Bitterballen; crocquetten and Frikadel Schotel. Cactus is a small dinner restaurant in clean air-conditioned premises [English items such as Gammon Steak and a Trio of Homemade Sausages on Mash]. The impressive Mezzanine finally got an identity with the addition of a young Thai chef presenting an extensive menu [larbs, salads, soups and a variety of curries; green, red, massaman and panaeng].
Ubud was where most of the new top quality establishments were to be found. The great thing about the new Bali is that not all are at the top end of the price range; quality is coming through at every level. Red Rice became Olive Oil [every dish prepared using virgin olive oil in some way, even the Carrot Cake], and the impressive Tropical Bakery and Cafe opened opposite the gates of the Uma Hotel.
Balispirit the yoga house, opened a café, it is called Kafe. Busy all day [breakfasts, snacks and light meals] from the very beginning it is already the haunt of regulars. Coffee & Silver moved from the back streets of Tebesaya to a prime location near the Monkey Forest and was also an instant success although going through a few problems at the moment. Further up the road is the Greenhouse at Pertiwi [Poached Hainan Chicken], offering something different to the discerning tourist.
In Penestenan, Sek Wai Tin brought us real Cantonese & Szechuan Chinese to increase our choices. A hidden location has not helped its cause. A better location is the offshoot of Naughty Nuris [an ex-pat icon], Nuris Nacho Mama, but American Mexican does not seem to be proving overly popular.
At the other end of Ubud, in Pengosekan, is Indian Delites, with some connection to and using a similar menu to Gateway of India. Those old favourites; Kathirolls, Aloo Mattar and the creamy Malai Kofta. At Peliatan [down the road towards Maya Ubud] is another little gem, Mangga Madu! Simple Indonesian cuisine in immaculate surroundings at bargain basement prices [our 2nd best Cheapie of the year]. Order a Nasi Pecel Madu [like Gado Gado but with rice, chicken, shrimp, fried soya-bean and peanut crackers] as a centrepiece with Tuna Bakar and Ayam Base Kalas, less than Rp.20,000 p.p!
The outskirts of Ubud saw two luxury hotels spawned, both in majestic locations on the river banks of lush valleys. Above Payangan, and on the western bank of the sacred Ayung, is Hanging Gardens. The buildings almost hang as well and each level is reached by a very French Funicular. Serving French food, of course, although more modern than classic; Foie-Gras Terrines, Dill and Mustard marinated Salmon.
In the Nagi village on Ubuds north-eastern corner is The Viceroy. Its very fine dining French restaurant, CasCades sits atop the hill, the luxury villas below. Classic French, under the talented direction of David Sosson, in a setting so magnificent that it is pure Bali! Friday evening Chefs Gourmet Dinners, a great value degustation every night and an a la carte to keep the gourmands ecstatic.
Nothing new in Lovina although I discovered a few for the first time; excellent Thai at Jasmine Kitchen, beachside dining at Villa Agung and sensational value International at Kubu Lalang.
Amed saw two more boutique hotels with modern western restaurants, Life in Amed [Salad of Goats Cheese is with figs and toasted pine nuts] and Anda Amed [Pork braised in Cider with Star Anise], another beachside mini restaurant, Sunrise [freshly caught pan-fried fish fillets, in a light batter, cooked in garlic butter] and the German-managed Puri Wirata [Bratkartoffeln for breakfast, pan-fried sliced potato with onions and bacon topped with eggs].
What will happen in 2006? All the indications are that this constant thrust of new operations will continue and our ethnic options will just keep on increasing. Whilst value-for-money remains the main indicator, we will all win!
Gerry Williams
gerry@balieats.com
Best New Restaurants of 2005
Best Cheapie Waroeng Asia
A little gem! A perfect Pad Thai [noodles with chicken and shrimps], excellent salads and curries and all at incredibly low prices, as long as you can get a table?
Best Cafe SoHo
All day breakfasts and all those things you expect to see in an American café; Reuben Sandwiches, Spare Ribs, Steaks and Burgers galore.
Best Value Queens Tandoor
Serves sensational Indian cuisine; with the aid of imported chefs, chillies and spices. The exotic flavours far more complex than usual whether from the tandoor or pan.
Best Sports Restaurant Buddhas Belly
Unusual combination of Billiards and Food [a fusion of Thai, Vietnamese and International]. The billiard areas are glassed-in, air-conditioned and sound proofed, dining is down the centre of the long building.
Best Restaurant Husk
Presents top level Thai cuisine in Bali. Menu is similar to Sydneys famous Longrain restaurant, but the place is not as frantic, real quality. Relaxed open setting surrounded by water.
Best Fine Dining CasCades
A revelation! A more magnificent setting would be impossible to imagine. Combine that with real haute cuisine, French fine dining at its best. CasCades is destined to become one of Asias greatest restaurants.
2004 End of Year Wrap
Bali, Food Capital of Asia!
There is definitely better Cantonese food in Hong Kong, Thai food in
Thailand and Vietnamese food in Vietnam, etc. However, the current BaliEats
web site list 43 different cuisines as now being available in Bali. Whilst
many are at the top of the cost spectrum [but still vastly cheaper than
almost anywhere else] the amazing thing about Bali is the spread down
through medium and cheap eating locations as well. Unlike a few years back
most are now also in the hands of industry professionals and it shows!
Last year most of the action was in the newer restaurant areas, amazingly
this year even some of those tired old tourist areas received welcome shots
in the arm. The only exception was the township of Nusa Dua which outside of
the hotels still looks like a ghost village. Lotus Gardens has cashed in on
this by becoming a true Mediterranean restaurant presenting food from all
the areas surrounding that great sea, such as their Spanish Cochinello Asado
[pork chops marinated with cumin, garlic and herbs], a Lamb Couscous from
Tunisia.
Nearby, the old fishing village of Tanjung Benoa has provided most of the
local action for that area. The arrival of The Conrad had an immediate
impact on this stretch of road to the old fishing port, not only with their
wonderful Spice [the Sauteed Pepper Lobster combines black and Sichuan
pepper with fresh green peppercorns, contrasting with the delicate Lamb
Chops from the Tandoor], Suku [a marvellous Spiced Braised Duck Confit] and
the seaside 8 Degrees South [a Caribbean style Pork Tenderloin with warm
onion and jalapeno salsa and sweet potato mash or a honey & soy glazed
Salmon Steak] restaurants. They also inspired many dead old sites to become
transformed in the hope of catching some of the hotel overflow. In this area
new colourful arrivals have appeared regularly. Santorini is Greek although
an obvious copy of somewhere else. The new Casa Luna [as with the one in
Sanur] have no connection whatsoever with the original in Ubud. Zero points
for originality! But at least the degree of choice has been greatly
increased.
Even Jimbaran is getting a makeover, although slower than elsewhere. The
normally very expensive Ritz-Carlton shocked us all by installing quality
Thai cuisine [although sadly watered down in taste for their hotel
clientele] into their Padi restaurant and charging very regular prices. It
is in one of the most magic of settings, amongst fountains and ponds, with
excellent service but at reasonable prices.It became an immediate hit with
the local ex-pats, and no wonder. Also recently opened has been di Mare at
Royal Jimbaran Bay starring New York's Raymond Saja with some unusual
offerings [Caramelized Foie Gras, Cumin-braised Grouper and Tarragon Panna
Cotta].
Tuban is the big shock, now with places well above the tourist norm. Bluefin
led the charge with great fusion food combining traditional Japanese with
western cuisine touches [The Bluefin Chilli Ayo combines baked scallops,
octopus, squid and shrimps, and is then topped with a chilli mayonnaise and
flying fish roe]. Ma Joly closely followed with quality French cuisine in a
wonderful beachside setting. Bubba Gump arrived in Bali, and SE Asia. It
does not matter whether you call them prawns or shrimps. Large serves of
them are combined with a variety of great tastes in a fun environment. They
also play that memory-jogging soundtrack. Even Waterbom Park got a facelift,
an innovative multi cultural food court inside and a similar treatment for
its outside diner, Wet.
We all thought Kuta was finished for exciting new developments other than
simple drinking houses. Naturally many new alcohol palaces appeared to sake
the thirst of the hungry hoards, but we got some quality as well. Fuel
serves modern International cuisine with strong Asian overtones [a wonderful
Braised Pork Belly is an example, a generous slab of ever-so-tender pork
belly is covered with a soy-honey glaze and sits on a mix of sweet red
cabbage and white beans]. Fuel is a real class act for Kuta! On the eastern
side, from the giant bus park, rose Kuta Galleria. Aji-Sai [Japanese] was
the first to open, soon followed by Gekko Blue and many others. Not far
away, behind Bali Bakery, is the impressive DongDong with its modern
Japanese cuisine
Newcomers in Legian were restricted to the budget department, La 'n Mai and
Posers Pub in Jln. Padma and the very popular re-vamped Indo-National
nearby. The long standing Teras got a facelift and continues to pack them
in.
Costa Smeralda opened in Seminyak with specialties from Sardinia [Gnochetti
Sardi is shell pasta with slices of fresh sausage and salami in a tomato
base] and the massive Brazilian Churrasco. The latest transformation at The
Villas was the opening of their Prana restaurant at The Spa, featuring
healthy options [Burmese Tofu Curry and Cajun Pumpkin Jambalaya amongst
them] as well as more normal cuisine. In the drinking street, Tu Viet
arrived to start filling the void of Vietnamese cuisines in Bali [Stuffed
Chicken Wings and Sugarcane Prawns] and then C'bo opened on the corner to
feed the hungry drinkers with pizzas and things, Namaste to do the same
thing with Indian offerings, and Warung Mimpi with Indonesian.
Shooters became Club Inc., then Sugar and now seems to be about to change
once more. Close by is Ja'an, an enormous late night drinking lounge with
food [Szechuan 5 spiced Pork Fillet with noodles] but now also open from
lunchtime.
Kerobokan, as usual, had its share of openings [and closings], with the
promise of more to come of both in 2005! The Metro offers Australian
specials [giant-sized T-Bone Steaks, Kangaroo and Crocodile Fillets as well
as that other Aussie special, Hamburgers with Beetroot!]. Sate Bali offers
quality Balinese food from a professional kitchen [a sensational Tum Bebek,
minced duck in coconut milk and spices, cooked in a banana leaf]. Wrap a
Snapper keeps the fish and chips brigade happy.
Loloan was the upmarket entry to Kerobokan [Rendang Kambing is a Lamb Shank
cooked padang style in a Sumtran curry. Kway Teow Moo are pork back ribs
baked in hoisin and dark beer]. Gran Café gives us specials from Singapore,
Laksa and much more. Shanghai Breeze became Ginger but still offering tasty
tapas and drink combinations galore.
The star of Sanur was the move, from The Village to his own restaurant, of
Massimo. All the dishes you would expect from a great Italian restaurant
plus some unusual ones from his home region of Lecce [Sagne Ncannulate a
super thin fettuccine and Risotto Salsiccia e Funghi the best risotto I have
ever had]. What was the highly successful Mykonos Taverna changed its
stripes and became the Jazzy Café with new menus. It is now selling Greek
cuisine once again [perhaps regretting the previous change] but no longer
connected with the Mykonos management.
In Ubud the changes just keep on coming. Wunderbar became the first fully
air-conditioned restaurant in Ubud with a mix of European cuisines, Barandi
a courtyard restaurant with Mediterranean, French and Indonesian dishes well
above the average [including a sensational Prawn and Mushroom Ravioli], and
CiSa brought quality Indonesian Chinese food at budget prices.
A big surprise, for Ubud, was the emergence of two exceptional cheap
eateries, strangely both in the same street, Jln. Hanoman, but at either end
of it. Baliku, at the Padang Tegal end, is small but all quality. Dishes
such as their Stir-fried Chicken in oyster sauce with tomato and onion are
simple but amazing. The Poached Fish Fillet in a Manado stock on rice
vermicelli is a perfect match and both dishes cost less than Rp.20,000 each!
At the top end of the street is the very small Lada Warung, but be prepared
to wait for a table. A vast selection confronts you that includes; tasty
sates, spicy bergedels, stuffed eggplant, crispy tempe, an array of
vegetable dishes well spiced and much more. Take a large plate with one
serve of everything available and you will have a feast for two that will
cost you less than RP.50,000 for two, including drinks!
However, the highlight for Ubud was the very recently opened Warung Enak. At
Ubud's southern end at Pengosekan this unique building stands out from all
else. It serves very traditional Indonesian food from many different
regions, with nothing toned down, just the real thing! An example is their
Ayam Taliwang [from Lombok], grilled chicken that has been marinated in a
paste made from pounding candlenut, chilli, lemongrass, Kaffir lime and
shrimp. Or the Kalio Cumi-Cumi [from Sumatra], stuffed squid simmered in
coconut milk.
On Bali's north eastern coast the developments also continued with Life in
Amed in the fishing village of Lian offering local food in a classic
setting. The Sunset opened to great acclaim but soon closed to be greatly
enlarged so as to cater for its immediate demand.
What will happen in 2005? All the indications are that this constant thrust
of new operations will continue and our ethnic options will just keep on
increasing. Whilst value-for-money remains the main indicator, we will all
win!
Gerry Williams
gerry@balieats.com
Best New Restaurants of 2004
Best Cheapie - Lada Warung
Enough food for two at a cost of much less than Rp.50,000. Simple Inodnesian
dishes, naturally all of them pre-cooked, but still an amazing array of
tasty food in modern stylish, though very small, premises.
Best Value - Warung Enak
Two years in a row for Ubud [last year Café des Artistes]. What a
turnaround for an area that used to in general present food that was
overpriced and boring! This long awaited Made Wijaya designed 'space'
produces food to match its exotic premises. The big shock is the prices, so
reasonable for very traditional Indonesian food produced in a professional
kitchen. This is not a warung, this is a class restaurant!
Best Restaurant - Massimo il Ristorante
Best new restaurant is in Sanur, again reflecting Bali's overall changing
food scene. Sanur used to be the only area that was worse than Ubud! In the
past too many restaurants with same menu, often boring and usually
overpriced. Massimo presents wonderful Italian food specialising in some of
the delicacies of the Lecce region of Italy.
Best Nightspot Restaurant - Fuel
A new nightspot in Kuta, nothing new there! But combined with top quality,
even adventurous, food now that is something! Whilst the food is similar to
what has been presented at their TeraZo restaurant in Ubud for a number of
years, to have this option in Kuta is something else! Open from lunchtime,
with lighter music, in cool air-con premises, until very late morning!
Best Fine Dining - Spice
Creative dishes using so many different spices of the world, and producing
taste sensations that linger in the memory long after the visit. The Conrad
has hit the jackpot with all their food outlets but Spice represents fine
dining at its best! If you appreciate your food with uninhibited flavours,
then Spice is a must! One of the new great restaurants of Bali.
2003 End of Year Wrap
A Vintage Year!
The disasters that beset Bali's tourist industry during the year 2003 are
well known. Just recovering from the New York Disaster of 2001 and the Kuta
Tragedi of 2002, SARS knocked the stuffing out of any hopes of a major
revival. As a result you would have expected many restaurants to close
during the year and very few new ones to have taken the gamble to open.
The closures have been many, some of which may have been overdue, but there
were other unfortunate closures that saddened us. Some closed permanently,
others re-opened with either the same or different management. Many remain
closed, waiting for someone with money and dreams, and hopefully the
knowledge to make them work. However, amazingly, 2003 has also been a
vintage year for the opening of new, and often classy, restaurants. As has
been the case during recent years, these new arrivals on Bali's culinary
scene have seen an ever-increasing number of ethnic cuisines become
available to the discerning diner, and across almost all of the different
price categories.
The number of new restaurants that have been opened by industry
professionals, rather than enthusiastic amateurs has also seen the standards
continue to steadily increase.
Hardest hit in the tourist slump has been the Nusa Dua district. So much
downsizing and restaurant closures that at times it represents a ghost town.
The only significant new openings have been at some of the forward thinking
major hotels. Most significant of which has been the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel.
The Maguro is one of the islands most attractive sushi bars, although it
also offers many other luncheon options. What a great spot to relax for an
hour or two. Raja's has always been an excellent restaurant. Now it is a
fine dining experience not to be missed. The very authentic Balinese cuisine
offerings at Raja's are quite sensational.
Many other hotels are still in the process of upgrading their food outlets.
Along the beach at Kuta, a new disco opened, with Indian cuisine. Kama Sutra
was its name. Jln. Legian, in Kuta, recovered from its dramas of the
previous years and played host to a classy version of the Dome and Ryoshi
franchises. But it was as we begin to get away from the old traditional
tourist areas of Bali that the restaurant activity begins to hot up!
On the eastern side of Kuta, Aji-Sai was the first [of the projected many]
to set up in the restaurant area of the new Kuta Galleria Complex. Good
Japanese at very reasonable prices. Another new Japanese restaurant is now
to be found in the extension of the Bali Bakery complex on Jln. Raya Kuta.
Dong Dong is its name and it has had a very stylish fit out over two levels
[an open mezzanine].
Legian hosted a new, and quite upmarket, version of that Bali icon, Mama's.
All your German favourites and still open 24 hours a day, serving locals,
expats and tourists alike. At the Legian Beach Hotel an unusual restaurant,
Lais. Two narrow adjacent Bales give uninterrupted views of the Bali sunset,
whilst providing excellent Indonesian cuisine.
In Seminyak we saw Puri Duyung shed its old shell and offer very good and
budget priced Cantonese cuisine. Just love those chicken and prawn meat
rolls, wrapped in tofu skin that becomes very crispy in the deep-frying
process. Cross-sliced and served with a sweet and sour sauce, my ideal
lunchtime snack. An excellent vegetarian hangout, Zula, is a small
air-conditioned hideaway for that anytime healthy snack. They have an
unusual Lentil Pate and a great Apple Crisp [baked apples with cinnamon and
raisins, toped with a walnut granola and honey]. On the corner of Jln. Dyana
Pura is Nazaro, a Turkish late night eatery that is drawing varying
comments.
In Jln. Kunti, long established The Villas has had a major facelift and has
been renamed as the Prana Health & Spa Resort. Their vegetarian restaurant
produces exotic meals that are still good for you. Across the road is the
French restaurant attached to Bali Deli, but unfortunately it is outdoors.
Axiom is another great new restaurant on Jln. Legian. Chris Patzold, of ku
de Ta fame, produces some of the best food in town. The degustation menu is
quite superb! The Afghan Restaurant is the latest newcomer to this stretch
of road, kebabs reign supreme but other dishes are to come in the near
future.
Kerobokan has seen so many new restaurants at all levels open. Most of them
have been in Jln. Laksmana. An unbelievable number of new restaurants, some
of which have already failed, and others that will no doubt follow suit. But
the ethnic choice available in this street is amazing!
East West quickly became BarBQ. Meat and seafood dishes simply barbecued,
but featuring a Sunday Evening Roast Night [Lamb, Beef, etc.] Paul's Place
opened with Pan Asian cuisine. A Thai kitchen was soon added. Dining on the
roof is the main evening attraction. Not content with that, a small, great
value, Chinese restaurant, Shanghai Breeze, has also been added a few metres
away. Warung Taste is a warung with French food, and virtually at warung
prices [Duck Confit and Tarragon Chicken amongst their offerings]. A few
strange management decisions, particularly with their wine list, has marred
their early high performance. The Tuesday Night Pizza Club seems to be
developing a following very quickly [Pepperoni, Ham, Goat's Cheese and Red
Onions is my favourite]. Another eat-in or take-away is the Fish 'n' Chips.
Trattoria Cucina Italiana was the first cheapie to fill up on this street
since the Greek Mykonos Taverna made Jln. Laksmana famous. Their pasta
dishes are their main attraction [a great gnocchi]. Almost next-door is the
very upmarket and wonderful Toscana for those who can afford it [Beef with
Goose Liver and Black Truffles, for dessert a Terrine of wild Berries]. Not
far away from the Trattoria is new opposition, Rumours, following the same
budget priced philosophy.
Punto & Basta is a stylish Italian restaurant more in the mid range price
bracket, interesting food [Salmon & Lime Cakes, with a touch of Wasabi, or a
Crispy Chilli Salmon], it is opposite the street's Japanese entry, the
relaxing Kuni's.
But the most successful new opening on this street this year is undoubtedly
Khaima. They serve excellent food from Morocco, in totally traditional
surroundings. Their Tangines are quite sensational, and for me the Lamb and
Vegetable Tangine is one dish I could have again and again.
Out on Jln. Raya Kerobokan, is Lola. It is a fine upmarket French restaurant
in smart modern air-conditioned premises, open for lunch and dinner. Out
amongst the rice paddies, a few kilometres from the famous Kerobokan Prison,
is the find of 2003 [or any other year for that matter]! Warung Gossip!
Great Indonesian food, served fresh from the kitchen at an average of
Rp.20,000 per person. Around Rp.25,000 including the drink of your choice,
unless you want to splurge on a modestly priced bottle of Wine of the Gods.
Sanur saw many openings and many closures. Pala arrived on the Bypass and
immediately built up a lunch trade. Almost next door is the Bali Kopi Shop
with a variety of snacks and light meals, and their trademark Butterfly
brand Coffee. 2003 also saw the arrival of a Mykonos Taverna [with the 1st
Studio Gelato Italian ice cream stand out front]. Everyone must love Greek
food as it was busy from the first week. The beach of Sanur also became the
latest location for a Stiff Chilli [another Studio Gelato in front of that
as well]. Those great thin wood-fired pizzas, laden with toppings!
Indian was the flavour of the year in Sanur with no less than three
restaurants opening. A local branch of the famous Gateway of India was the
first with their sensational Kathirolls, followed by Savitri Café [excellent
vegetarian curries] and Maharani [a great Martabak].
Nouveau closed down for renovations and extensions and then re-opened with
the same high quality but low-priced cuisine [Chicken Livers and Normandy
Meat Balls, my favourites]. Across the road the imposing Mezzanine had a
menu facelift from their new International Executive Chef, and now the food
matches the grand setting.
Ubud continues to come out of its shell. For many years, like Sanur, all
restaurants seemed to have the same menu. Now new places are opening and
more are planned. Puri Garden got new management, an interesting menu, and
even at attractive prices. Across the football field is the quaint Deli Cat
[sausages and cheese dishes their strange specialty]. Pizza Bagus went from
a small, but popular takeaway to a full scale restaurant. Lele Mas has
magnificient rice paddy views, their signature dish is catfish, or 'fish
with whiskers' as the staff say. New kids on the block, up here in
Pengosekan, are the psychedelic Wunderbar and the very chic laid-back
Barandi. Both are seemingly chasing that day and night café/restaurant/bar
market.
Coming down from Sayan is the Fly Café at Lungsiakan, offering a myriad of
choices for snacks or meals, in a pleasant open setting. Mozaic started
opening for lunch and operates an extensive deli as well. The latest Mykonos
Taverna transformed the old and tatty Beggars Bush into a blue and white
Greek food emporium.
Above Ubud, in Jln Bisma, near the famous Honeymoon Bakery, is one of the
value finds of the year, Café des Artistes. Simple International [Toast aux
Champignons, sliced mushrooms and onions on crispy toast. Salisbury Steak,
minced beef in a red wine and onion sauce] and Indonesian [an above average
Nasi Goreng, served with two sate sticks] cuisines at budget prices in a
great setting [you can sit inside and admire the displayed art collection of
the month, or out in the garden].
The Pavillion opened in Amed, with grand views across to Lombok, just in
front of the Japanese shipwreck. Part of the future Baliku Resort it offers
something quite different for this area [herbed Greek cheeses in filo pastry
and Kefta Kebabs]. Double One also opened, with grand sea views, next door
to Karen Kingston's Dancing Dragon and the almost completed Conference and
Seminar Centre. It has budget prices as have most of the eateries in this
area.
Best New Restaurants of 2003
Best Cheapie - Warung Gossip
How can you complain when your food and drink only costs you Rp.25,000. Eat
in an idyll rustic setting under the trees. Great, but simple, Indonesian
food that is full of taste, with an amazing range of dishes. This place is
no secret, as it is packed from 12.00 midday onwards, every day.
Best Value - Café des Artistes
Nice setting under very professional management. Small but well represented
menu of International favourites, and a few Indonesian special dishes. It is
in a definite comfort zone, ideal for that regular place to dine.
Best Restaurant - Khaima
When everything is considered; décor, food quality, originality, price and
service [that rare combination of professional service that is still
friendly and natural] Khaima was the best of 2003 for me. A great asset for
the Bali dining scene!
Best Fine Dining - Raja's
How pleasing it is to be able to say that one of Bali's finest restaurants
serves traditional Balinese cuisine. This is a world-class restaurant!
Raja's does all of the little things right, and presents as fine an evening
of dining as you could find anywhere. It is located in the Nusa Dua Beach
Hotel.
What will 2004 produce? Whatever happens, there is no doubt in my mind that
2003 will have been Bali's Vintage Year for New Restaurants!
Gerry Williams
gerry@balieats.com
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